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Somewhere East of Beigang to Mialiao.

Yesterday was certainly eventful. But even having learned to always be suspicious of what the marathon may hold, and not to take quiet days for granted, we were not expecting another possible disaster to arise again so soon. As usual, the day began harmoniously and without trial. The only possible hint at the challenges that lay before Neil this day could be found with hindsight in a little piece about hurricanes in that Al Gore climate change movie we were watching in the hotel last night. Of course, at that time, severe winds were as far from our minds as the melting ice caps. But isn’t that always the case?

Heading north on route 17, we laughed about the wind and told Dave about the typhoonish encounter Neil had had a few days before. Yet that had passed within an hour. These gales were to rule the whole day and night. Now, you may not be sure how a little bit of a weather system can be of of incidence in these kinds of scenarios. I suggest then that you go and find a feather, (a tall one that hasn’t been able to eat enough for the calories it’s been burning), and a hairdryer with an ultimate blow setting. Point the drier at the feather for a period of eight hours and see what happens. This should give you some idea of the task ahead of Neil. You will learn that it’s impossible. After six kilometres I don’t think I’d seen Neil so angry. Luckily, the anger was aimed at the wind and not at me. It was evident that we needed a plan. (more…)

Jiangiyun to Somewhere East of Beigang.

PHOTOS FOR DAY 22: 3097 3098 3103 3105 3106 3111 3115 3120 3123 3124

Oh, how different was the daylight Jiali. Last night, we could have been in a ghost town, with only that crazed, tortured grump of a proprietor for company. Today, Jiali is a buzzing mini-metropolis with markets, food stands and stalls everywhere you can see. Drinking coffee in the hotel, Dave is debating running with Neil today. However, on finding, possibly for the first time since I’ve been in Taiwan, a star sign section in the newspaper he’s forced to reconsider:

Neil’s Cancer star sign reads thus: You’re full of energy and enthusiam today. You want to go places and you want to make things happen. It won’t be easy for others to keep up with your pace.

And, Dave’s Taurean prediction: You’re so enthused, energetic and eager to do things today, be careful you don’t trip over your own two feet. Slow down!

In the sunshine, boosted by our enormous appetites that only rose ten-fold on finding a restaurant that served Western food (hallelujah!), we took tables outside, armed ourselves with newspapers and sat down to enjoy the early afternoon and gorge ourselves stupid. (more…)

Tainan to Jiangiyun.

This morning, Neil indulged in some well-earned entertainment and went to the cinema to watch a film called Street Kings (which he recommends) and I had a quick stroll around Tainan, a city jam-packed with temples providing evidence that Taiwan existed before 1980. We had a late start today but the first part of the marathon passed Tainan’s long sandy beach at dusk. Soon Keelung Dave is on the phone as he’s coming to help out for a few days. He is excited to have arrived in Taichung and hired a bike. Heading south towards us, he feels he must be near at road kilometre marker number 62. Sadly I tell him we’re at 194. He still has some way to drive.

Meeting Neil at 12km or so, it seems that the Vaseline that has served him so well for the last three weeks is taking an early retirement on its duties and our runner is somewhat irritated by a case of what we might call boxer fatigue. In England, where many men don’t know about style, there exists an item of underwear called a Y-front. It is Y-front time. I promise to look out for a clothes shop to purchase said item and Neil continues to run through the city. Soon he calls to tell me, weirdly enough, he’s at European Clothing, where his miming (hands forming a V-shape at the groin area) to the stunned female shop assistants eventually leads (more…)

Kaoshiung to Tainan.

Far too enamored with the Pig and Whistle not to squeeze in another visit, we return for a long, lazy Sunday brunch where Sky Sports shined heavenly from the TV and fried eggs shined sunnily from our plates. A crossword race between Mattus and I did not end bitterly and Neil reveled in the delights of doing nothing. We take Neil to the start line and are glad to have Matt’s company for most of the day. His clever witticisms are welcome to Neil and me who have tired, disintegrated brains now and find hysterical humour in things as ridiculous as a football commentator saying “…and it’s Smolov of Frolov…” or something.

We are soon leaving Kaoshiung behind and, after a small road-confusion fatigue episode, are on Route 17 and heading north again. Surrounded by corrugated iron and industrial towers, the roads are busy, polluted and unappealing. Matt heads back to Taipei to continue with real life on Monday morning. We are sorry he is leaving us so soon. The 17 leads us through village after village of neon-lit betel-nut stands, where girls in tiny clothes (more…)

Jiadong to Kaoshuing.

We faced some trouble finding a hotel last night that wasn’t a pay-by-the-hour Lurve Motel (exceptionally popular around here). Luckily, the comedy value of these venues prevented the search fatigue becoming a nuisance. We stayed in Donggang and went to Dapeng Bay, chilling there a while by a lagoon. After further difficulties locating a beach (I know, how hard can that be when you’re on the ocean’s edge?), we sunbathed foreigner-style amongst fully clothed fisherman with hats and umbrellas and back to front jackets and gloves. Neil cooled his pistons in the warm sea and we enjoyed the koch.

Starting back in Jiadong at 4.00 it was still hot but quickly cooled as evening came. We expect a friend named Mattus today. He is making a weekend bus trip from Taipei, and we hope he will bring tales of the city. In other tales, Neil had a dream that he was prevented from finishing his marathon by midnight (the last two kilometres of which were up and down a flight of stairs) due to being intertwined amongst a rioting pack of Spurs and Arsenal fans. When football and marathons meet in dreams… (more…)